(*Kiswahili for Goodbye and Thank you)
We exited Rwanda at the Rusumo border post which was quick and easy. Our plan to drive down the western side of Tanzania was a good one, although roads and rain were again the challenge in us reaching our planned destinations.
Most noticeable was the appearance of the Ankole cattle – big beautiful brutes known as the Cattle of the Kings - a hardened breed that are adaptable to any weather conditions. They survive on less food and drinking water than other breeds, and provide very rich milk and meat.
We found a wild camping spot in a quarry from the wonderful iOverlander app - it’s a very easy map app relying on travellers to update the camp entries with the latest information.
Travelling south, we encountered a gate across the road, which is not uncommon in all the countries we have visited. . We were asked our comings and goings, our details placed in a register and told we were entering a refugee area. There are 100 000 Burundi peoples living in Tanzania, fleeing from unsettled areas in their country. This was the Nduta camp, managed by the UNHCR - United Nations High Commission for Refugees. Their mission is to provide shelter, clean water, health care, education and jobs. It is scary to think that 38 million people in Africa have refugee status. This camp was very neat, row upon row of houses, children in school uniform and lots of people amassing on the road-side, perhaps at the soup kitchen. Very interesting to see this first-hand.
Again, we were forced to cut our travel short, and pulled into a wild camping spot called Behind the Rocks – a beautiful flat expanse with a stunning view for sunset.People passed with their Ankole herd, but were not fussed by our presence. It was so nice we would have stayed another night, but our water tank was low, so we headed on.
South, south through the Katavi National Park, through beautiful Miombo woodland, not easy driving but rewarding views.
We finally arrived quite late at Lake Shore Lodge, Kipili right on the edge of Lake Tanganyika. So beautiful looking out over the water to the lake islands. After a drink and soaking in the atmosphere, we headed to the campsite, cooked and had an early night.
In the morning, fellow camper Tamma from Stellenbosch came to meet us and chat about our trip and theirs. We were basically doing the same route in reverse so there was a lot to share. Later in the day, we met Tamma’s travelling mates – her three ‘kids’ , Adriaan (24), Milan (22) and Justine (18). Each of the kids was at a cross-roads, Adriaan had finished a job in Namibia, Milan her degree and Justine, school. They are overlanding to Kenya for 5 months, and had completed Namibia, Zambia and now in Tanzania.
Additionally, we met Gemma, the chef, who is an ex-DSG girl coming to chef at the Lodge, and Ollie, who is on site to learn the management role, straight of out Surrey, living in West Horsely, a village we know very well as it was very close to us in Ashtead! Small world.
Whether it was the laid-back vibe of the place, the beauty of having the water lap at shore, the warm water, the birdlife, the cold refreshments, but we just clicked into a happy holiday mode. Housekeeping was done, washing and drying done, linen in the lodge laundry giving us time to really chillax. Tamma and Suzanne spent ages in the water, just chatting and getting to know each other a bit, joined by the kids on and off. We had quite a lots of vegetables, so we had a joint Thai veggie curry dinner followed by Vondeling Sweet Carolyn dessert wine! A campsite dinner party.
The next day was our 40th wedding anniversary – one of the reasons for doing the trip! We had a lovely message on the lodge noticeboard, and a special dinner menu planned by Gemma with all our favourites! We negotiated a better price for a sunset cruise, which was a highlight for us. Tamma and kids, Gemma and Ollie and us, spent 2 hours cruising the lake, circumnavigating Lupita island, swimming, chatting and drinking up a storm. We could not have wished for a better celebration – unplanned and so stunning – it is definitely one we will remember.
Our dinner on the lakeshore was absolutely delicious – gazpacho (Suzanne’s choice), followed by pepper-sauced fillet, roast potatoes and vegetables (Anthony choice) and a chocolate yumminess and ice cream for dessert. Tamma and kids braaied sandwiches on the beach along from our dinner table, and afterwards we all finished the sparkling wine kindly given to us by the lodge.
Call it serendipity, call it luck, call it crossing of paths or a happy chance, meeting the Basson family was a very special moment on our trip. We will remember each and every one of them with fondness and will be following their adventure all the way back to Stellies at the end of June.
So it is goodbye Tanzania – we had five great weeks in this interesting country – lots of variety, lots of fun, lots of learnings and above all, fantastic memories to take home.
